And The Wine Shall Go Down With the Lamb: Vinoteque on Melrose
He causeth the grass to grow for the cattle, and herb for the service of man: that he may bring forth food out of the earth; And wine that maketh glad the heart of man, and oil to make his face to shine, and bread which strengtheneth man's heart.
Psalms (ch. CIV, v. 14-15)
It seems I may have stumbled upon a Melrose location which is a blessing to wrap these words around, tangled up in fresh herbs on an open-air patio, a deep list of wine bottles and a sensational menu. It’s called Vinoteque on Melrose, and it’s masterful.
The menu, created by Executive Chef and Co-owner Joshua Smookler, brings a truly sensuous selection to a late-night rendezvous, a late-morning brunch, or as in my case, a dinner which will leave you so enchanted with the food and the atmosphere that you’ll end up late for a film.
As patrons open new bottles of wine, they appear on a television screen via a projector (the bottles, not the patrons). It’s a sort of “stock market” without bulls and bears, but reds and whites instead. It allows customers the chance to enjoy glasses from high-end bottles of wine without spending a fortune to do so. “It operates on a set increase,” said co-owner Gil Ran. “The more money the bottle, the less the increase. It some cases, it’s cheaper than retail.”
They’ll open any bottle for a customer, allowing for just two glasses rather than paying for the whole thing. And if someone else takes the cork from the bottle first, or if the wine appears on the page of “Daily Pours,” then only one glass is necessary. One glass! In fact, our own daily pour list is marked by many checkmarks and smiley faces, the tally of our epicurean journey. The sommelier recommended a sweet Riesling (Monchhof Urziger Wurzgarten Kabinett), and a white that wasn’t - a Sauvignon Blanc (Kumeu River, from New Zealand) that we vowed to track down later.
As we dined on the patio, surrounded by grapes, tomatoes, fig trees, and a host of other fresh ingredients soon to end up in dishes, our conversation spun out in to the night, interrupted only by incredible bites of food. From a crab cake amuse bouche, through Malpeque oysters which swirled tastes of salt water and chili paste, to potato skins with cheddar, bacon, peppers and tomatoes, the European-sized plates allowed us to try many different flavors. The lamb meatballs are especially sure to please hedonists of all palates, stuffed with goat cheese, tomatoes and mint.
They’ve even started a late-night menu, so you can enjoy these first-rate flavors late into the evening, surrounded by the sounds of Massive Attack, Radiohead, and Zero 7. The perfect soundtrack to wind down your evening as you indulge in a gluttonous dessert, like the marscapone panna cotta or the peanut butter cup with chocolate ganache and peanut butter ice cream.
Part of cooking,” said Smookler, “is not to be entirely health-conscious. You need to enjoy your food.
We’re here to tell you that the pursuit of pleasure can lead you to some new and exciting places, and this is one of them. And here, with not only the food, but the service and atmosphere as well, Vinoteque on Melrose is sure to make your face shine and your heart glad.
I wonder if the Bible mentions anything about lamb meatballs.
Vinoteque on Melrose // 7469 Melrose Ave. / Los Angeles 90046
310.860.6060